Moscato d’Asti — the wine that knows how to wait for summer

While stern Auntie Autumn, in her heavy boots, kicks around the deck chairs nobody needs anymore and spreads melancholy, I suggest we give in to a bit of frivolity.

Namely, the light and slightly sparkling Moscato d’Asti.

Asti. Aaaaaasti

A wonderful, beautiful, magical region. A line of green hills flowing smoothly into sprawling valleys caresses the eye. It is even more pleasant to look at than the graceful curves and stirring contours of a beauty’s body.

The province of Asti lies right in the heart of Piedmont — a region that wine people place on a par with Burgundy. The Tanaro river crosses it exactly in the middle. There is enough sun here, and plenty of rain. A perfect climate for grapes.

Sometimes it may seem that Piedmont consists entirely of small and large nature-reserve valleys. And it is not just your impression. And there is also the Via Francigena, famed for its medieval churches, abbeys and historic monuments. And in this fairy-tale place the vineyards spread out lavishly.

By the way, the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato hills were added to the UNESCO list in 2014 — and it is right here, on the calcareous slopes between the Bormida and Tanaro rivers, that those very grapes are grown.

A grape remembered since antiquity

Moscato Bianco — or, in international terms, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains — is one of the oldest wine grape varieties on the planet. The Greeks brought it in the 5th century BC, and the Romans called it Apiane — “of the bees” — for its incredible sweetness and an aroma that attracted insects from miles away.

The first documented mentions of muscat in Piedmont date to the 14th century. And back in the 13th century Pietro de’ Crescenzi was already describing this variety in his treatise on agriculture. In short, the history is a serious one.

Three famous wines are made from this grape: Asti Spumante (a full-fledged sparkling wine), Moscato d’Asti (light, slightly fizzy) and Barbera d’Asti with Dolcetto d’Asti — for dry red. But today we are talking about the white and sweet one.

Moscato d’Asti is not a serious fellow

A frivolous, flighty wine that exists for flavor and good mood. Not for getting drunk and not for the dinner table. Sweet, only faintly sparkling, coquettishly low in alcohol — the wine delights the tongue.

The alcohol here is only 4.5–6.5% (usually around 5%). This is not wine, it is a cocktail of sunlight and aromas. From the very first sip you can feel those delicate peach and apricot notes for which white wines are so prized. And, of course, freshly pressed grape juice.

By the way, Muscat is almost the only variety that conveys the taste of the grape itself. It is the main note of the composition. The aroma of the wine, made up of fresh flowers, envelops you from head to toe. Notes of blossoming linden mix into the bouquet, which only the hardest of hearts could resist. But there is rather little acidity. Perhaps it just stretches out in the aftertaste like a fine, delicate string.

How this wonder is made

The method is called Charmat (or Martinotti, if you prefer) — fermentation takes place in sealed steel autoclaves at a controlled temperature. When the alcohol reaches the right level (about 5%), the process is stopped by cooling. The natural residual sugar stays in the wine — at least 80 g/l. The pressure in the bottle does not exceed 2.5 atmospheres, hence that light, barely perceptible sparkle.

The grapes are harvested by hand, strictly in September, when the berries reach peak ripeness. This is not industrial production — the region has about 4,000 small family wineries, and many vineyards cover only a few acres.

Indian summer in a glass

Moscato d’Asti is divinely pleasant to sip outdoors, preferably by the sea. So that the wind plays with your hair and the rays of the autumn sun get lost in a glass of golden liquid. And for all this splendor — the most frivolous of outfits.

Just to stroll with your beloved in a bright little dress that bares a slender thigh with every gust of wind, and light high-heeled sandals. A drop of jasmine on the wrist. Brazenly occupy the edge of a table at a waterfront cafe with a glass in hand, taking a small sip. Close your eyes.

Before the mind’s eye there appears that minx in a coat. The one who is Autumn in boots. The one smashing the deck chairs at the top of the text. Or rather, who was smashing them. Now she turns around in surprise. Shrugging, she comes over to keep you company.

And you thought why Indian summer comes. It is because someone moderately smart, rather cunning, in a bright little dress, offered Auntie Autumn a glass of light white wine. And she answered by putting out a bit of the velvet season.

DOCG — a seal of quality

Moscato d’Asti holds the highest Italian status, Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita. It has been DOC since 1967, and DOCG since 1993 (or, more precisely, since February 1994). These are not just letters on a label: the law strictly regulates the territory (the provinces of Asti, Alessandria and Cuneo, 51 communes), the variety (only Moscato Bianco), the method and even the minimum strength.

To avoid a mistake, look for this inscription on the label. Although with Indian summer it is hard to go wrong — it finds those who know how to wait by itself.

The region’s winemakers export about 88% of their output. Germany, the USA and Russia are the main markets. With an annual volume of around 15 million bottles, Moscato d’Asti is considered the most consumed sweet wine in the world. Not champagne, not port — precisely this light, almost innocent wine with 5% alcohol.

And do not forget to pay Autumn a compliment, she is a lady after all. Then the outfit will be forgiven.