Blanc de Noirs and Blanc de Blancs: what is the difference

Let us return to champagne. That is, to the sparkling wine produced in the French wine region of Champagne, and therefore the only one with the right to be called champagne. All the others, wherever they come from, are just sparkling wine.

So. Champagne comes in two kinds: Blanc de Noirs and Blanc de Blancs. What the difference is, we will see now.

Blanc de Noirs: white from black

Blanc de Noirs (pronounced “blahn duh nwahr”) is a kind of sparkling wine whose name translates as “white from black”, because it is made only from dark grape varieties. Specifically, from Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Most often grown in the southern part of Champagne, in the Montagne de Reims region: the villages of Ambonnay, Bouzy and Verzenay are famous for structured Pinot Noir with ripe fruit.

Among the most expensive Blanc de Noirs one can recall Krug Clos d’Ambonnay and Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises. Curiously, Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises is made from berries of ungrafted Pinot Noir vines that survived the phylloxera invasion. That is a nasty insect that completely destroys and sucks dry whatever it lives in, just like a human. At the end of the 19th century the pest wiped out almost all the vineyards of Europe. Only crossing with vines from the New World helped winemakers restore the plantations.

Blanc de Noirs is unique for its rich palette of aromas: red berries, plum, spices, and in old wines earthy, truffle-like nuances. Dark grapes are traditionally sweeter and more intense. The trick is to press the berries so that the pigment from the skins does not get into the juice. Then the must stays clear, suitable for champagne.

Worth attention are the Blanc de Noirs from Cédric Bouchard, who practices a biodynamic approach. This method excludes chemical fertilizers, keeps natural ground cover in the vineyards, and of course the berries are picked by hand. Cédric Bouchard’s Blanc de Noirs are Inflorescence Val-Vilaine, Inflorescence La Parcelle and Roses de Jeanne Les Ursules.

Another master is Egly-Ouriet, whose Blanc de Noirs from Grand Cru Montagne de Reims are considered the benchmark of density and structure. And in California Schramsberg makes an excellent Blanc de Noirs from 89% Pinot Noir and 11% Chardonnay, a more complex, creamy, medium-bodied style.

Blanc de Blancs: white from white

Blanc de Blancs (pronounced “blahn duh blahn”) means white from white. Most often it is made from Chardonnay, one of the nine international varieties. That is, it is grown all over the world and is not all that unique. What matters is the terroir, the place of growing, and the technique of handling the berries.

The heart of Blanc de Blancs is the Côte des Blancs: Le Mesnil-sur-Oger with intense minerality, Avize with a balance of aromas, Cramant with a soft texture. Limestone soils give high acidity and minerality, which is exactly what makes Blanc de Blancs so lively and long-lived.

However, Blanc de Blancs sometimes also uses Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier and Arbane. These varieties are already rarer. Especially the last one.

Cépage Arbane Moutard Père et Fils is an example of champagne made from pure Arbane. It is found only on a few plantations of the Côte des Bar in the south of Champagne.

The floral, green-tinged Authentis Petit Meslier from Duval-Leroy consists exclusively of Petit Meslier. So it is a rare item too.

The elegant Quattuor from Michel Drappier is made from four white varieties: Chardonnay, Arbane, Petit Meslier and Pinot Blanc. Quattuor is simply “four” in Latin.

The same Cédric Bouchard has several single-variety Blanc de Blancs in the Roses de Jeanne line: La Bolorée from Pinot Blanc and La Haute-Lemblée from Chardonnay.

Among the most renowned Chardonnay-based Blanc de Blancs one can single out Dom Ruinart, Salon Le Mesnil and Krug Clos de Mesnil. Among the less hyped but cult ones are Pierre Gimonnet, Agrapart Venus and Emmanuel Brochet Haut Chardonnay.

The bouquet and taste of Blanc de Blancs are delicate and moderate: citrus, green apple, white flowers, minerals. More floral, with a green note. Hints of fruit are possible. With age, notes of brioche and roasted nuts develop, along with a creamy texture.

To sum up

Blanc de Noirs is more complex and richer in taste: red berries, spices, a dense body. It is ideal with roast meat, mushrooms and aged cheeses. Blanc de Blancs is exquisitely fine: citrus, flowers, minerals, a light body. Its element is seafood, oysters and light snacks.

Champagne is supposed to be served with light desserts. However, the author will allow himself to disagree. Both kinds of sparkling wine deserve to be enjoyed on their own. After all, you still need to catch the difference in taste, and generally the price is such that it would be a shame to wolf something down with it.