Stout: not a cinematographer, not a writer, just an excellent dark beer
Stout is not the American cinematographer, the Oscar winner for “The Quiet Man”. Not a journalist from the TV screen. Not the British rugby players, soldiers and namesakes. Not the author of Nero Wolfe. And certainly not the prime minister of New Zealand.
We are going to chat about the ale style of dark beer that is brewed from roasted barley and caramel malt. And which, by the way, is older than most of the people listed.
Where the word “stout” came from
The word “stout” (meaning “strong”, “sturdy”) first appears in relation to beer in the Egerton Manuscripts of 1677. These papers are kept in the British Library and are available to view online.
According to those records, stout simply meant a strong beer, with no connection to color or flavor. Over time a drink made from roasted malt came to be called porter. And if the porter came out strong, it was a stout porter. Then the word “stout” stuck to the strongest dark version and stayed.
Just imagine a workman at the bar trying to get out “kind sir, pour me another stout porter”. And failing. That was when it became clear: it is easier to call things by their own names.
Guinness: who fixed the term for good
Guinness has brewed beer since 1759, but it was this company that established the term “stout” as a separate style in 1820. Before that, “stout” and “porter” were almost synonyms, and the only difference was strength. Guinness brewed an especially strong porter, called it stout porter, and the world bit.
Arthur Guinness understood the value of the new term and promoted it with all his might. With a single word a clear image of the product was created: a dark, strong, manly beer.
By the middle of the 19th century Guinness had switched entirely to producing stout. Today the company makes about 19 varieties around the world, and Guinness Draught (4.2% in the keg, about 6% in the bottle) remains the benchmark of Irish dry stout.
A medical revolution in a glass
In the 19th century stout gained a reputation as a healing remedy. Doctors prescribed it for a huge number of ailments, from bowel problems to general weakness. Physicians recommended stout to post-operative patients, blood donors and nursing mothers.
In 1920 an advertising agency surveyed Guinness consumers. The most common answer: “It is good for you”. That phrase became the basis of the legendary advertising campaign with the slogans “Guinness is good for you”, “My Goodness, My Guinness” and “Guinness gives you strength”.
Modern studies confirm that stout contains antioxidants, iron and flavonoids. So the doctors of the 19th century were not entirely wrong.
Types of stout: who brewed what
Milk Stout
The British turned out to have a sweet tooth. Or a sweet sip. Anyway, they started adding lactose to stout, a milk sugar that yeast cannot ferment. The result was a sweet, thick, “nourishing” drink. Advertising of those times boasted: “one glass is like a whole meal”. Right up to the middle of the 20th century stout appeared in medical recommendations for nursing mothers.
Oatmeal Stout
The Scots decided to strike a blow for a healthy lifestyle even before it became a trend. At the end of the 19th century oatmeal and health were becoming synonyms, and Scottish brewers added oats to the wort. The result was a soft, creamy stout with notes of nuts and caramel. Oats can make up to 30% of the grain bill, giving smoothness and a creamy texture thanks to proteins and lipids.
Dry Stout / Irish Stout
The Irish stayed true to the classics. Their stout turned out somewhat dry, with a sharp bitterness from roasted malt and minimal sweetness. It was simply called “dry” and that was that.
The best-known dry stouts are brewed by Guinness at St. James’s Gate, its brewery in Dublin, working since 1759. There are also Murphy’s (brewed since 1856 in Cork) and Beamish from Heineken. There is always something to choose from.
Classic Irish dry stout is served with a nitrogen gas blend (N₂), which creates the characteristic fine creamy head and the “soft” mouthfeel.
Russian Imperial Stout
A strong style of about 10% alcohol, created in the 18th century specially for export to the Russian Empire. It was served at the court of Catherine II. It is distinguished by high density, intense flavor and the ability to keep for a long time, which was critical for the sea route from Britain to Russia.
How stout is brewed
Classic stout is brewed from well-roasted barley and caramel malt. Besides an almost black color and a lush, lasting head, the drink has a stunning taste: slightly coffee-like, just a touch chocolatey, with a clear barley base.
The aroma has the same range, but less pronounced. But the producers are cunning.
Chocolate stout
Brewers add cocoa powder. It has little effect on the taste, but the beer comes out thicker, with a rich chocolate aroma.
Coffee stout
The same technology. It comes out as if a shot of good espresso had been dropped into a glass of sweetish dark beer.
Oyster stout
Yes, that exists too. Sometimes a mollusk is added right into the keg for aging. And sometimes it is brewed with oysters. A long time ago oysters and stout were considered inseparable and were served together in pubs. Then the oyster farms dwindled, and pale ale pushed out stout. But in the 19th century Ernest Barnes combined oyster concentrate with stout, and people liked it.
Dessert stout
With the taste of toasted marshmallows. Or pancakes with ice cream. Blueberry pancakes. Vanilla and fruit crumble. Sheer horror, though, truth be told, rather curious.
The author’s opinion
Call the author an old believer, but a glass of beer should be bitter, cold, with a rich aroma. And without all these desserts.
Better to put that very glass in your hand. Set a small plate of cheese next to it, which of course nobody will eat. Open the window, turn on some music. And leave the person to admire the stars.
Drink responsibly. And remember: a good stout does not need oysters; it is wonderful on its own.